Thread: Octavia 1.9tdi 2001y Driver Door Blocked

Hello guys,
can someone help me to open drivers door which are blocked.The central lock works perfect only I cannot open the drivers door from indside and also from outside.I think that the cord from lock is droped mechanicaly down.
Is there a possibility to put a wire in hole which belongs to hand holder in the midle of door padding and activate the lock.I don't no exact where is the triger on the lock for mechanicaly activating the door lock. If someone who expert is for this lock to upload a picture how to activate the lock from cabine (from driver side)

I know the second way how to open the door. I must wit a scalpel made a hole in door padding near the lock ,when can I see the lock I canin that case find the lock triger.
This experiment is very expencive ,the new door padding is about 220 EURO.
If someone have some cleaver idea please to share with me and help me to solve the problem on the cheapest way.
Many thanks in advance for probably help and support
Regards to all

Sorry, I dont´t have the answer but my 1999 Octavia 1.9 TDI has exactly the same problem. I would highly appreciate to know how you manage to resolve the problem.

Originally Posted by gppera

Hello guys,
can someone help me to open drivers door which are blocked.The central lock works perfect only I cannot open the drivers door from indside and also from outside.I think that the cord from lock is droped mechanicaly down.
Is there a possibility to put a wire in hole which belongs to hand holder in the midle of door padding and activate the lock.I don't no exact where is the triger on the lock for mechanicaly activating the door lock. If someone who expert is for this lock to upload a picture how to activate the lock from cabine (from driver side)

I know the second way how to open the door. I must wit a scalpel made a hole in door padding near the lock ,when can I see the lock I canin that case find the lock triger.
This experiment is very expencive ,the new door padding is about 220 EURO.
If someone have some cleaver idea please to share with me and help me to solve the problem on the cheapest way.
Many thanks in advance for probably help and support
Regards to all

Originally Posted by Birger

Sorry, I dont´t have the answer but my 1999 Octavia 1.9 TDI has exactly the same problem. I would highly appreciate to know how you manage to resolve the problem.

Here is the answer how have I solved the problem :
1. First you must remove the plastic from the wall between two doors (driver side) on this wall is safety belt .There are two screws one very big (for uper side of safety belt and one small)
When this plastic is out now you can with a screwdriver unscrew two screws
on the sidewise of padding from driver door. On the bottom side of padding there are 3 screws (unsrew them is very simply).
2.Now you must remove the small laudspeaker (he is on the right side of door).This is very simply he is fixed with 2 plastic stud (be carefully behind is small conector with wire) and one small srew.
3.Now you must remove board with switcher for opening and closing all windows.Here you must first remove the safety plastic lock .He is on the hand holder of padding.With small flat screwdriver remove it very carefully out.
Very carefully becouse he has two clasps one left and one right (claps are about 1 cm long and about 3 mm thick.When the safety plastic lock is out you can simply removed the whole metal board with window switchers.Be carefully behind is a big conector with cable.
4.Now remove 3 very big screws from padding
5.Now come a very delicate job.With a small knife and a flat srewdriver you must go in padding .If you carefully look in padding you can see that the padding is from two parts made.In the midle of padding there is part which is laminated with textile.This two parts are stick together ,now with knife and flat screwdriver you must carefully removed this two parts of padding.
When you have to do this you have win.
6.Now you can carefully pull the left side of pading and go into with your left hand behind of padding and find the cord for door opening and pull it mechanicaly.
7.The door is open now. Now when the door is openm you can remove the last two srews on the right side of padding .Now remove the complete padding from the door.To do that you must push the padding vertical up.
Be carefull to remove the cord from door handle.
8.Now when the padding is out yo can carefully removed the electronic lock.
In my case the electronic lock was defect (price for new electronic lock is 100 EURO)
9.To remove the electronic lock you must first remove the key holder
10.To remove the key holder you must first remove rubber cork from the lateral door side.In the hole is a screw.When you unscrew this screw it is posible to remove the key holder out.
11.Now you must remove two rubber corks (this are much bigger) from the lateral sid of door,behind are two big screws.When you unscrew them you can removed the electronic lock from the door.You must unplug the connector from electronic lock and very carefully removed the smal cord from
outside door handle.
12.Now you have dissasembled the complete electronic lock from your door.
13.In this electronic lock only is defect a small micro switch but it is not possible to find it
14.When you buy a new electronic lock with reasembling you must go from chapter 11.

I have only forgot to tell you when the padding is out wih a glue fix the both parts of padding
This is the end of story .......... I wish you good luck'
HAPPY NEW 2008:

Thank you GPPERA for an excellent and very detailed description

I can follow all your steps but I have one small question:
In § 6 you say: “Now you can carefully pull the left side of padding and go into with your left hand behind of padding and find the cord for door opening and pull it mechanically.”
What is the difference between pulling the cord and just pulling the interior door handle? Don´t you have to release the locking mechanism some way, which seems to be jammed by the doorlock motor?

Since I am not too happy about putting the knife in the door padding I have been thinking if there is any alternative method.
If I remove the rear door I can access the fixing screw for the locking cylinder located on the lateral side of the front door. I can then take out the locking cylinder and the exterior door handle. Do you think it will be possible to then reach the locking mechanism through this exterior hole??

Sorry to bother you again with my questions. I don´t know if you have the time to answer them.
Anyway thanks for what you have already done for me.

Birger

Originally Posted by gppera

Here is the answer how have I solved the problem :
1. First you must remove the plastic from the wall between two doors (driver side) on this wall is safety belt .The
re are two screws one very big (for uper side of safety belt and one small)
When this plastic is out now you can with a screwdriver unscrew two screws
on the sidewise of padding from driver door. On the bottom side of padding there are 3 screws (unsrew them is very simply).
2.Now you must remove the small laudspeaker (he is on the right side of door).This is very simply he is fixed with 2 plastic stud (be carefully behind is small conector with wire) and one small srew.
3.Now you must remove board with switcher for opening and closing all windows.Here you must first remove the safety plastic lock .He is on the hand holder of padding.With small flat screwdriver remove it very carefully out.
Very carefully becouse he has two clasps one left and one right (claps are about 1 cm long and about 3 mm thick.When the safety plastic lock is out you can simply removed the whole metal board with window switchers.Be carefully behind is a big conector with cable.
4.Now remove 3 very big screws from padding
5.Now come a very delicate job.With a small knife and a flat srewdriver you must go in padding .If you carefully look in padding you can see that the padding is from two parts made.In the midle of padding there is part which is laminated with textile.This two parts are stick together ,now with knife and flat screwdriver you must carefully removed this two parts of padding.
When you have to do this you have win.
6.Now you can carefully pull the left side of pading and go into with your left hand behind of padding and find the cord for door opening and pull it mechanicaly.
7.The door is open now. Now when the door is openm you can remove the last two srews on the right side of padding .Now remove the complete padding from the door.To do that you must push the padding vertical up.
Be carefull to remove the cord from door handle.
8.Now when the padding is out yo can carefully removed the electronic lock.
In my case the electronic lock was defect (price for new electronic lock is 100 EURO)
9.To remove the electronic lock you must first remove the key holder
10.To remove the key holder you must first remove rubber cork from the lateral door side.In the hole is a screw.When you unscrew this screw it is posible to remove the key holder out.
11.Now you must remove two rubber corks (this are much bigger) from the lateral sid of door,behind are two big screws.When you unscrew them you can removed the electronic lock from the door.You must unplug the connector from electronic lock and very carefully removed the smal cord from
outside door handle.
12.Now you have dissasembled the complete electronic lock from your door.
13.In this electronic lock only is defect a small micro switch but it is not possible to find it
14.When you buy a new electronic lock with reasembling you must go from chapter 11.

I have only forgot to tell you when the padding is out wih a glue fix the both parts of padding
This is the end of story .......... I wish you good luck'
HAPPY NEW 2008:

Sorry Birger for my late answer but I have to much work in my TV Service and I have not time to answer you about § 6 .
Look in my case defect was electronic lock but the cord which was coupled to the interior door handle was also blocked.With pulling the interior door handle it was possible to move it only for a few degree.I have fear to pull it strongly -it can be damaged.
Therefore I put my hand behind the padding to remove the cord from the interior door handle.When I have made this the mechanical trigger in electronic lock was free and now was possible to press the cord and open the door.

Why I go with knife between two parts of padding,because when the both parts are free it was very easy the bigger part pull out(the padding was now much flexible it was not so stiff).
When the padding is total out from door you must remove the fine plastic cover.Now you are king. You must remove first the locking cylinder ,the outside cord than remove two screws from electronic lock and remove it.
I have forget there is a connector with cable plugged with electronic lock,you must unplug it.
That's all
Again good luck Peter

Peter, my door lock is fixed

We had exactly the same problems, a jammed door cable combined with a defect micro switch.
I first tried to reach the locking mechanism from the outside by removing the lock cylinder and door handle. But unfortunately I could not reach the lock this way.
Next I tried to cut out the padded door section but I soon gave up realizing that I did neither have the necessary skill nor the proper tools to do this job without causing damage to the fabric.

I then removed the 2 screws on the lateral side of the door and the 3 screws at bottom and could open up the door panel a little. Working from the back seat with a small bent steel bar and a flash light, I managed to lift up the Bowden cable up from its attachment. This released the wire tension and the door could be opened.
I found an excellent link on internet describing the door lock : taligentx.com: Passat - Door Lock Mechanism Repair On picture no 3 of this link you can clearly see the cable attachment I am talking about.
After opening the door I proceeded to remove the lock since my central locking system had been behaving strangely. I found that the micro switch in the bottom was very dirty and had become stuck. After cleaning it up I it started to work again. After inspecting and testing all switches I reassembled the unit.

Now everything is working fine and even my alarm for “headlight on when opening the door” is working again.

Thank you Peter, without your advices I would not have managed this job.

I have I high mileage (270000 km) TDI and would like give you some hints about three problems that have been difficult to diagnose.

1. Engine stumbles and sometimes stops. This is probably caused by a faulty relay 107 located beneath the dashboard.
2. Engine gradually loses power as mileage increases. Likely to be caused by faulty air flow meter, especially if this is a Borch unit. Simple diagnose: Disconnect the wiring to the air flow meter and run engine. If the engine is running better with the airflow meter disconnected you have found your problem.
3. If you ever have to bleed your brakes by pumping the pedal you should never push the pedal all the way to the to the floor. This will cause a gasket in the main cylinder to turn inside out. The symptom is: very long pedal travel and your brakes do not feel safe. Since no spare gaskets are available you will have to replace the main cylinder.

I hope the above hints might be useful to you

Thanks and best regards
Birger

Originally Posted by gppera

Sorry Birger for my late answer but I have to much work in my TV Service and I have not time to answer you about § 6 .
Look in my case defect was electronic lock but the cord which was coupled to the interior door handle was also blocked.With pulling the interior door handle it was possible to move it only for a few degree.I have fear to pull it strongly -it can be damaged.
Therefore I put my hand behind the padding to remove the cord from the interior door handle.When I have made this the mechanical trigger in electronic lock was free and now was possible to press the cord and open the door.

Why I go with knife between two parts of padding,because when the both parts are free it was very easy the bigger part pull out(the padding was now much flexible it was not so stiff).
When the padding is total out from door you must remove the fine plastic cover.Now you are king. You must remove first the locking cylinder ,the outside cord than remove two screws from electronic lock and remove it.
I have forget there is a connector with cable plugged with electronic lock,you must unplug it.
That's all
Again good luck Peter

Correction
The link that shows the cable connection is VWvortex Forums: MKIV door locks explained - why you're having problems!!!
Sorry
Birger

Originally Posted by Birger

Peter, my door lock is fixed
We had exactly the same problems, a jammed door cable combined with a defect micro switch.
I first tried to reach the locking mechanism from the outside by removing the lock cylinder and door handle. But unfortunately I could not reach the lock this way.
Next I tried to cut out the padded door section but I soon gave up realizing that I did neither have the necessary skill nor the proper tools to do this job without causing damage to the fabric.

I then removed the 2 screws on the lateral side of the door and the 3 screws at bottom and could open up the door panel a little. Working from the back seat with a small bent steel bar and a flash light, I managed to lift up the Bowden cable up from its attachment. This released the wire tension and the door could be opened.
I found an excellent link on internet describing the door lock : taligentx.com: Passat - Door Lock Mechanism Repair On picture no 3 of this link you can clearly see the cable attachment I am talking about.
After opening the door I proceeded to remove the lock since my central locking system had been behaving strangely. I found that the micro switch in the bottom was very dirty and had become stuck. After cleaning it up I it started to work again. After inspecting and testing all switches I reassembled the unit.

Now everything is working fine and even my alarm for “headlight on when opening the door” is working again.

Thank you Peter, without your advices I would not have managed this job.

I have I high mileage (270000 km) TDI and would like give you some hints about three problems that have been difficult to diagnose.

1. Engine stumbles and sometimes stops. This is probably caused by a faulty relay 107 located beneath the dashboard.
2. Engine gradually loses power as mileage increases. Likely to be caused by faulty air flow meter, especially if this is a Borch unit. Simple diagnose: Disconnect the wiring to the air flow meter and run engine. If the engine is running better with the airflow meter disconnected you have found your problem.
3. If you ever have to bleed your brakes by pumping the pedal you should never push the pedal all the way to the to the floor. This will cause a gasket in the main cylinder to turn inside out. The symptom is: very long pedal travel and your brakes do not feel safe. Since no spare gaskets are available you will have to replace the main cylinder.

I hope the above hints might be useful to you

Thanks and best regards
Birger